Pre-MOT checklist: 20 things to check yourself before the test

You don't need to be a mechanic to improve your chances of passing an MOT. Many failures are caused by faults you can find on your driveway in minutes. This checklist covers 20 of them, grouped by area. Most need nothing more than a helper and a 20p coin. It's worth the half hour: in DVSA's 2023 data, 29% of cars failed their first attempt, and lights were the single biggest cause.

Do the checks about a week before your test, so you've got time to fix anything you find. If you don't know when your test is due, look it up with our MOT due date checker.

Before you start

• Park on level ground in daylight, ideally facing a wall or garage door.
• Have someone available to help with the lights.
• Keep a note of anything you find.
• Look up your last MOT's advisories. Our MOT advisories check lists them, and they tell you where to look hardest.

Lights and signals (checks 1 to 6)

Lighting faults are among the most common reasons for failure, and the easiest to fix.

1. Headlamps. Check dipped and main beam on both sides. Look at the reflection on a wall. Both beams should be at roughly the same height.
2. Sidelights and rear lights. Switch on and walk round the car.
3. Brake lights. Ask your helper to press the pedal while you check all of them, including the high-level light.
4. Indicators and hazards. Check every indicator, including side repeaters on the wings or mirrors, then the hazard lights.
5. Rear fog lamp. Switch it on and check it lights, and that the dashboard symbol comes on too.
6. Number plate lamp. Often forgotten, and a common fail.

Also look for cracked or missing lenses, and water inside light units.

Tyres and wheels (checks 7 to 10)

7. Tread depth. The legal minimum for cars is 1.6mm across the central three-quarters of the tread. Insert a 20p coin into the main grooves. If you can see the coin's outer band, the tread may be close to the limit and should be measured properly.
8. Sidewalls. Look along both sides of each tyre for cuts, bulges and cracking. Turn the steering to see the inside of the front tyres.
9. Pressures. Set them to the figures in the handbook or on the sticker inside the driver's door or fuel flap.
10. Wheel nuts. Check none are missing, and that you have the locking wheel nut key to take to the test.

Our tyre tread depth guide covers the other tyre checks testers make.

Visibility (checks 11 to 14)

11. Windscreen. Look for chips and cracks, especially in the area directly in front of the driver. A small chip can often be repaired cheaply, but a crack in the wrong place will fail.
12. Wipers. Run them with washer fluid. They should clear the screen without smearing or leaving streaks. Replace the blades if they don't.
13. Washers. Top up the washer bottle. An empty bottle is a fail.
14. Mirrors. Check that all mirrors are present, secure and not cracked.

Inside the car (checks 15 to 18)

15. Seatbelts. Pull each belt out fully and check for fraying or cuts. Make sure each one latches securely and retracts smoothly.
16. Horn. Give it a short press. It must work and produce a steady sound.
17. Warning lights. Start the car and watch the dashboard. Warning lights for the engine, brakes, ABS, airbags or power steering should go out shortly after starting. If any stay on, get it diagnosed.
18. Doors and seats. Every door should open from inside and out, and the driver's seat should be secure and adjust properly.

Under the bonnet and underneath (checks 19 and 20)

19. Fluid levels. Check the engine oil, brake fluid and coolant. Low brake fluid can point to worn pads or a leak. Look under the car for fresh drips.
20. Exhaust. With the engine running, listen for blowing or rattling from underneath. A loud or changed exhaust note can mean a leak.

Quick reference table

If you find a problem

Don't panic: finding a fault before the test is exactly the point. What you do next depends on what it is.

• A blown bulb, worn wiper or empty washer bottle. Fix it yourself the same day.
• A tyre near the limit or with sidewall damage. Replace it before the test. It's both a likely fail and a safety risk.
• A warning light. Book a diagnostic check. Some faults are simple sensors; others need proper repair. See which warning lights fail an MOT.
• A noise from the suspension or brakes. Book an inspection. If it's a repair you'd need after a fail anyway, doing it first saves a retest.
• Anything that makes the car feel unsafe to drive. Stop using it and get it looked at before the test.

If the repair will take time, check how long your current certificate has left. As long as it's still valid and the car is safe, there's no need to rush the test. Move the booking to give yourself time.

Electric and hybrid cars

Most of this checklist applies to electric and hybrid cars too. There are a few differences:

• There's no exhaust emissions test on fully electric cars, so check 20 doesn't apply.
• Tyres often wear faster on heavier electric cars, so check tread depth carefully.
• Brake discs can corrode because regenerative braking does much of the work. A few firm stops on a quiet road before the test can help clean them up.
• Warning lights for the high-voltage system should be diagnosed by a garage with the right training and equipment.

Things you can fix yourself

Many issues on this checklist are simple DIY jobs:

• Bulbs. Most can be changed without tools. Check the handbook, and buy the correct type.
• Wiper blades. They clip on and off in a minute or two.
• Washer fluid. Use a proper screen wash, not washing-up liquid.
• Tyre pressures. Most petrol stations have a pump.
• Number plates. Replacements must come from a registered supplier and meet the current standard.

Things to leave to a professional

Don't attempt repairs to brakes, steering, suspension or anything structural unless you're qualified. If your checks reveal a problem in these areas, get it looked at before the test. It's usually cheaper to book a repair than to pay for a retest after a fail.

On the day

1. Take the car for a run of at least 15 minutes before the test, so the engine is warm for the emissions check.
2. Clear the boot and footwells.
3. Bring the locking wheel nut key.
4. Make sure there's enough fuel.
5. Know the maximum fee. A test centre can't charge more than £54.85 for a car.

Keep your notes for next year

Write down what you found and fixed, with the date. Next year, start with that list. If the same bulb keeps failing, there may be a wiring or earth fault. If the same tyre wears quickly, check the wheel alignment. Patterns in your own notes are as useful as the advisories on the MOT record.

What this checklist won't catch

The MOT inspects many things you can't easily check at home, including brake efficiency, suspension joints, corrosion underneath and emissions levels. This checklist won't guarantee a pass, but it removes the most common avoidable failures. For a fuller picture of what testers look for, read our guide to the most common reasons cars fail.